I had all of this in mind when I tasted Shake Shack’s addition to the veggie burger canon earlier this week. These chains have moved away from the idea that a veggie burger should contain actual veggies, and most of their forays into vegetarianism have flopped. In the past few years, fast food chains like Burger King and KFC have bet big on products like burgers and nuggets that approximate the taste and texture of meat as closely as possible. The current landscape of meatless fast food burgers is, to put it plainly, pretty bleak. As a fan of both vegetables and burgers, I decided to give it a try. The burger, already available nationally through app-ordering, and slated for an in-store rollout May 5, is filled with mushrooms, sweet potatoes, carrots, farro, and quinoa. But Shake Shack’s latest offering, the “ Veggie Shack,” doesn’t try to disguise its contents as anything other than good ol’ fashioned vegetables. The truth is that most meatless fast food burgers taste like they’re ashamed to be plant-based, instead celebrating their similarities to real beef.
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